• Check out a lively fish market and watch a football game at the restaurant next door
  • Celebrate victory or console defeat with ice cream from a local patisserie
  • Follow your nose to a bakery that turns out macaroons, cookies and almond biscuits

Beşiktaş Çarşi, the lively fish market, recently got a radical makeover. (You’ll either love or hate the curved concrete-and-steel shell.) And “Çarşi” also happens to be the nickname for the die-hard fans of Beşiktaş, the neighborhood football team. While the club’s new stadium is under construction, the next best thing is to watch a match at one of the cheap and cheerful restaurants clustered around the fish market. Çarşi Balik is always jumping, and for good reason. The excellent meze aren’t just for soaking up raki—the black-eyed peas and beer-battered mussels are especially delicious. (Wear the Beşiktaş team colors, black and white, for extra brownie points with the locals.)

Just off Barbaros Bulvari, the fish market is at the intersection of Mumcu Bakkal and Köyiçi Meydanı Sokak. From there, just stroll up Köyiçi Meydanı and you’ll find Çarşi Balik restaurant.

BEŞIKTAŞ ÇARŞI: Mumcu Bakkal Sokak

ÇARŞI BALIK: Köyiçi Caddesi, Laşhkar Sok No:4; +90-(0)212-258-1841;

HASANPAŞA: 12 Şehit Asım Caddesi; +90-(0)212-261-9766