MEET FOOTBALL FANS IN THE FISH MARKET

Check out a lively fish market and watch a football game at the restaurant next doorCelebrate victory or console defeat with ice cream from a local patisserieFollow your nose to a bakery that turns out macaroons, cookies and almond biscuitsBeşiktaş Çarşi, the lively fish market, recently got a radical makeover. (You’ll either love or hate the curved concrete-and-steel shell.) And “Çarşi” also happens to be the nickname for the die-hard fans of Beşiktaş, the neighborhood football team. While the club’s new stadium is under construction, the next best thing is to watch a match at one of the cheap and cheerful restaurants clustered around the fish market. Çarşi Balik is always jumping, and for good reason. The excellent meze aren’t just for soaking up raki—the black-eyed peas and beer-battered mussels are especially delicious. (Wear the Beşiktaş team colors, black and white, for extra brownie points with the locals.) Celebrate victory, or console yourself in defeat, with a black mulberry ice cream from Mado, a patisserie chain with an outpost on the edge of the market. Or follow the aroma of coconut macaroons to Hasanpaşa, a bakery with a wood-fired oven that turns dozens of different cookies. Go in the afternoon, when the acı badem—almond biscuits similar to amaretti—emerge hot from the oven. Just off Barbaros Bulvari, the fish market is at the intersection of Mumcu Bakkal and Köyiçi Meydanı Sokak. From there, just stroll up Köyiçi Meydanı and you’ll find Çarşi Balik restaurant.BEŞIKTAŞ ÇARŞI: Mumcu Bakkal Sokak ÇARŞI BALIK: Köyiçi Caddesi,  Laşhkar Sok No:4; +90-(0)212-258-1841; besiktasbalik.besiktasport.net MADO: 21/A Şehit Asım Caddesi; +90-(0)212-258-7780;mado.com.tr HASANPAŞA: 12 Şehit Asım Caddesi; +90-(0)212-261-9766