Windsurfing champion Kemal Demirasal made waves in the seaside resort of Alaçatı with his farm-to-table restaurant, Alancha. His smart Istanbul outpost pays homage to Turkey’s cosmopolitan culinary heritage. The 20-course Big Migration tasting menu (served at spotlighted tables by handsome chefs with oversize beards and glasses) pushes the boundaries of Turkish cuisine. Iced puffed-wheat soup, Bosnian beef jerky with truffle cream, and sea bass with garum and samphire are some of the standouts. During the day, there’s a reasonably priced two- or three-course lunch menu inspired by produce from local markets. This place takes sourcing and seasonality so seriously that there’s even a juice-pairing menu.