The afternoon in Hammam is an Istanbul ritual not to be missed-but avoid the tourist traps in the Old City, where brusque staff will give you a brutal pummeling in less-than-salubrious surroundings. Instead, our concierge can help you book a session at the 16th-century Kılıç Ali Pasa Hamam, designed by renowned Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. This glorious bathhouse reopened in 2012 after a seven-year restoration; the skylit dome alone is worth the steep entrance fee. Yes, it's pricier than the average saunas, but it's also more opulent and absolutely immaculate. Leave your inhibitions at home-but bring your bikini bottom. Nudity is not permitted and the sexes are segregated (8 am to 4 pm for women, 4:30 pm to 11:30 pm for men). Strip down and sweat it out on the heated marble slab, before an İngilizce-speaking therapist Gives you a very thorough exfoliation. (There are less-abrasive scrub-downs for kids, under-5's go free.) You'll emerge with glowing skin, especially if you treat yourself to a post-scrub, olive oil massage. Retox with a cocktail on the terrace of Istanbul Modern, a five-minute walk away. There's no better place to watch ships cruise down the Bosphorus straits. A new painting and sculpture museum is set to open next door in 2016.