BAG A BARGAIN AT THE BAZAAR

Navigate through the Grand Bazaar to discover local treasures Stroll the streets and browse classic Turkish tiles, jewelry, biker jackets and linensVisit a café with fresh-pressed juices and a hole-in-the-wall with succulent kebabsWith over 3,000 shops, the Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) can be overwhelming—especially if you hate haggling. (As a rule: feign indifference, never name your price, don’t lose your cool, and be prepared to drink copious glasses of tea.) But there’s treasure to be found if you know where to look. Streets are organized according to their wares, with store after rival store selling kilims, leathers, turbans, or tiles. For jewelry, make a beeline for Ümit Berksoy’s tiny studio in Iç Bedestan, the antiques market that dates back to Byzantium. Berksoy’s delicate brooches and rings shaped like dragonflies, bees, and lizards are studded with precious gems. Just outside Iç Bedestan, Iznik Art produces brilliant copies of classic Turkish tiles. For biker jackets, your best bet is Koc Deri. For high-quality hamam towels and linen bathrobes, follow locals to Abdulla. The fresh-pressed juices at Fes Café next door will perk you up when the pushy hawkers start to grate. There are rich pickings just outside the covered bazaar, too: check out Armaggan, a one-stop shop for contemporary Turkish designs, and Hilat for bold, solid gold jewelry inspired by antiquities. Need to refuel? Follow the shopkeepers to Dönerci Şahin Usta, a hole-in-the-wall that doles out succulent döner kebabs laced with sumac. Pick up sumac, pul biber (mild chili flakes), and hibiscus tea from any of the stalls outside the Spice Bazaar—they’re way cheaper (and fresher) there than at the tourist traps inside. Ask the shopkeeper to vacuum-pack your purchases so your luggage is spared. ​First, figure out what you want from the Grand Bazaar. Then, find the street it’s on. For jewelry, make a beeline to İnciciler Sokak. Find brilliant Turkish tiles on Halıcılar and biker jackets on Kapalicarsi Kurkculer. Find high-quality linens and fresh juice on Halıcılar Caddesi. Be sure to check out the other great shops just outside the covered bazaar.ÜMIT BERKSOY:  İnciciler Sokak 2; +90-(0)212-522-3391 IZNIK ART: Halıcılar Street. No:18; +90-(0)212-512-3473; iznik-art.com KOC DERI: Kapalicarsi Kurkculer No: 22-46; +90-(0)212-527-5553; kocderi.com Lonca Sovenier: Halıcılar Caddesi No. 58/60; +90-(0)212-526-3070; abdulla.com FES CAFÉ: Halıcılar Caddesi 58-62; +90-(0)212-528-1613; fescafe.com ARMAGGAN: Nuruosmaniye Caddesi No: 65; +90-(0)212-522-4433; armaggan.com HILAT: Serefefendi Sokak, Seref Han No: 58; +90-(0)212-520-0171; hilat.com DÖNERCI ŞAHIN USTA: Nuruosmaniye Kılıççılar Sokak No:7 ; +90-(0)212-526-5297; donercisahinusta.com